GROW YOUR OWN "VICTORY GARDEN"

By Bob Chapman

All during WW2, millions of Americans (including this writer) grew their own vegetables in what was called a "Victory Garden." These gardens meant that more food would be available to our fighting forces. Currently, in these times of economic uncertainty, many people are considering growing their own vegetables. Now, in addition to the regular vegetable garden with its rows of growing vegetables, you can plant some vegetables in such small spaces as between shrubs, under trees and anywhere you would normally plant flowers. Here are some suggestions for growing your own "Victory Garden."

SELECTING SPOTS IN THE YARD
Carefully note the areas or spots that you could plant some vegetables. Make a note about the exposure: shade, part shade, full sun. If you are fortunate you may have a plot of ground available. If not, look for areas in the shrubbery border that you could spade up and plant a few delicious and nutritious vegetables. Some are considering removing a lawn or section of it to grow vegetables.

SOIL AMENDMENTS AND FERTILIZERS
No matter what soil you have, sandy, loamy or thick adobe, add and spade into the soil generous amounts of organic matter (compost, peat moss, mushroom compost) as an aid in retaining moisture and allowing air to the roots. Spread a complete fertilizer such as Superfine Lawn Fertilizer over the soil before spading. This fertilizer contains all the major and minor nutrients your vegetables will need.  If plants are showing signs of hunger scatter a spoonful near the base of the vegetable. You'll not regret it ever!

EXPOSURE
Most vegetables like full sun to grow, but there are vegetables that will grow in shady areas. Radishes, leaf lettuce, celery, spinach, beets and turnips are but a few.

WATERING, USING A WATER-CONSERVING DRIP IRRIGATION SYSTEM
A drought condition has always been a concern in California. In some areas rationing of water can occur. In order to achieve the most growth of your "Victory Garden" using far less water than conventional systems, consider installing a drip watering system. Drip irrigation waters ONLY the desired vegetables and not a wide area beyond. A FREE and easy-to-follow guide (Raindrip's "Drip Watering Made Easy") to follow for planning, installing and maintaining a drip watering system is available in the plumbing department of our stores. You'll be pleasantly pleased with the ease of installing and using a low-volume drip irrigation system. Also available are vegetable drip watering kits by Raindrip. We stock piping, timers, tubing, drippers and all the fittings you'll need in the plumbing department.

TIMES FOR PLANTING A "VICTORY GARDEN" IN MILD WINTER AREAS
Whether planting seeds or transplants, here is a chart for planting vegetables in mild-winter areas. If you live in an area with cold winters, check with your County Agricultural County Extension Agent for suggestions on what to plant and when. You'll find the number in the front of the white pages. Look in the County Government section for "Cooperative Extension University of California." They will be pleased to help you.

"VICTORY GARDENS" FOR MILD WINTER AREAS OF CALIFORNIA

Here's a monthly planting schedule. Look at the vast number of vegetables that can be planted in any one month! It's truly a year 'round opportunity. For example, you can plant peas from January to August and corn as late as July!

January: Asparagus**, artichoke**, broccoli*, cabbage*, carrots, cauliflower*, kohlrabi, onions, parsley, peas, radish, rhubarb**, spinach, turnips

February: Asparagus**, beets, broccoli*, cabbage*, carrots, chard, kale, lettuce, onions, parsley, peas, white potatoes#, radish, spinach, turnips

March: Asparagus**, beets, cabbage*, carrots, celery*, chard, endive, kale, lettuce onions, parsley, peas, white potatoes#, radish, turnips

April: Snap or pole beans, beets, cabbage*, carrots, celery*, chard, corn, cucumber, endive, kale, lettuce, onions, parsley, peas, late potatoes#, radish

May: Lima beans (bush or pole), snap or pole beans, beets, carrots, celery*, chard, corn, cucumbers, eggplant*, endive, lettuce, muskmelons, parsley, parsnip, peppers*, late potatoes#, pumpkins, radish, squash, tomatoes*

June: Lima beans (bush or pole), snap beans, beets, Brussels sprouts*, carrots, cauliflower*, celery*, corn, cucumbers, endive, lettuce, parsnip, radish, rutabaga, squash, tomatoes*, watermelon

July: Snap or pole beans, beets, Brussels sprouts*, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower*, corn, endive, kohlrabi, lettuce, radish

August: Beets, cabbage*, carrots, cauliflower*, kohlrabi*, peas, radish, turnips

September: Artichoke**, broccoli*, cabbage*, cauliflower*, radish, spinach

October: Artichoke**, broccoli*, cauliflower*, radish, spinach

November: Artichoke**, broccoli*, cauliflower*, radish, spinach

December: Artichoke**, broccoli*, cauliflower*, parsley, radish, rhubarb**, spinach, turnips

KEY:  *Purchased from a nursery or garden center in cell packs.  ** Sold as bare root.  # Purchase seed potatoes from a nursery. Supermarket potatoes are treated to prevent sprouting and will not grow.

Here's a helpful guide to use when planning your "Victory Garden:"

Seasonal preferences of certain vegetables

Cool season vegetables: Distinctly cool-season crops preferring temperatures around 60-65 degrees. They are not able to stand hot weather and will tolerate some frost:
Cabbage, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, turnips, rutabagas, kohlrabi, spinach, parsnips, lettuce and celery.

Warm-season: long-season vegetables preferring a temperature mean of 70+ and no cool weather: Watermelons, eggplant, some peppers.

Mid-range: Prefer temperature means of 65-80 degrees and will not tolerate frost: Cukes, muskmelons, squash, pumpkins, beans, tomatoes, peppers, sweet corn.

Wide-range vegetables: Prefer temperatures around 55-75 degrees and tolerate some frost: Onions, beets, garlic, carrots, leeks, shallots, potatoes.

To sum it all up: The sooner you get started the sooner you'll be able to bring tasty, nutritious vegetables from your "Victory Garden" to the table. You'll never regret it!

Bob Chapman is a well-known professional gardener and landscape contractor. Currently retired, Bob now spends his time contributing many free-lance garden articles and columns, and is a much sought after lecturer and horticultural consultant.

Since 1987, Bob has appeared as a regular columnist for the San Jose Mercury News. Besides the Mercury, his writings have appeared in the San Diego Tribune, Sacramento Bee, Fresno Bee and the Times Newspaper Group. He is the 1991 winner of the Quill and Trowel Award of the Garden Writers Association of America for the best newspaper gardening article in North America.

Bob majored in Ornamental Horticulture at Cal-Poly, San Luis Obispo. He also served as a member of the Professional Gardeners Association.