Cleaning & Painting the Fireplace & Chimney
By Owen Whetzel
CLEANING THE BRICKS OR STONE AND MORTAR
Cleaning bricks and mortar is a task where you can rarely clean just one or a small area. Clean bricks among dirty ones are often as unsightly as soot or dirt stained bricks. However, before cleaning a large area it is important that you clean one or two bricks and the mortar surrounding them, to be certain you like the results. Choose the least conspicuous area for this test.
One cleaning method is to vacuum bricks and mortar well. Wear hand and eye protection and soak a cloth with clean water. Hold the cloth against the bricks and mortar until as much of the water as possible is absorbed from the cloth. (Whenever cleaning bricks or mortar always wet the surface with as much water as possible before applying any liquid. This helps to minimize the chances of liquids being absorbed into and retained by the bricks and mortar.)
Use a mixture of powdered Tide detergent (without additives) and 2 tablespoons of table salt mixed to the consistency of toothpaste. Use a clean, inexpensive paintbrush to brush (almost scrubbing) the mixture on and into the pores of the bricks and mortar. Allow to dry overnight. Wear eye protection and scrub away the dried mixture using a very stiff bristle, non-metallic brush.
There have been other cleaning methods developed over the years. You may want to do an Internet search for "fireplace brick cleaning" (or use similar keywords), however don't be mislead by cleaning methods or products formulated for cleaning exterior brick and mortar surfaces. They may require extensive water flushing, neutralizing or may produce unpleasant or harmful fumes.
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CLEANING THE CHIMNEY AND FIREBOX
Unlike some vacuum cleaners, that indicate when the bag is full and needs to be changed, masonry chimney flues don't really tell you, when they need cleaning. You should be concerned about two fire hazards: 1. The build-up of soot and creosote, and 2. Cracks or masonry damage.
There are many factors, that affect how dirty a chimney and firebox (fireplace opening) become. For example, softwoods, such as end-cuts and scraps of pine, hem-fir, fir, redwood and cedar, as well as unseasoned materials, produce more creosote than, for example, seasoned oak.
One of the best indicators as to how often to clean a fireplace is to ask yourself how often you use the fireplace. If you only build a fire on holidays, you need not be as concerned, as if you build a fire once or twice a day.
Assuming you have roof access and do not have a permanently mounted chimney cap, here's what you'll need to clean a masonry chimney yourself:
-Chimney sweeping brush (Never use chains, rocks in a burlap bag, etc. Use a metal brush shape and size that closely matches the interior of the flue. An oversized brush may get caught in the flue. A brush that is too small will not effectively clean the flue walls.)
- Chimney brush rods or poles (lengths that connect together)
- Approximately 1- by 6- inch wire brush with handgrip (for cleaning the smoke shelf behind the damper)
- Respirator or quality dust mask
- Eye protection
- Gloves
- Plastic sheeting
- 2-inch wide masking tape
- Tarp(s)
- Trouble light with long cord or extension cord
- Shop vacuum
- Fireproof ash container
Before cleaning a chimney, wait 48 hours after having a fire in the fireplace. The first thing to do is to remove the grate and ashes. According to the Consumer Products Safety Commission (CPSC), "Store fireplace ashes in a fire resistant container and cover it with a lid. Keep the container outdoors and away from combustibles."
Cover the firebox with plastic sheeting, which is firmly taped around the edges to the face of the fireplace opening, and drape a tarp or tarps over and around nearby carpeting and furniture.
Safely climb on to the roof, making certain your ladder is not damaged and is firmly planted on solid ground, taking with you a chimney brush and brush rods (enough sections to reach down the flue), and trouble light.
Assemble the brush poles (you will likely use several lengths) to the chimney brush. WARNING! Electrocution hazard. Be aware of any electrical wires nearby. You are using a metal brush and may be using poles, that will conduct electricity. Insert the brush and pole into the flue. Raise and lower the brush in short scrubbing strokes, gradually working your way to the bottom of the flue.
After a good brushing, remove the brush and inspect the flue with a trouble light, looking for any damage and areas, that you may have missed cleaning. Once you are satisfied with your work, return to the fireplace opening. (Dust yourself off. Be sure not to carry soot or debris in to the house.) Remove your gloves and make certain your hands aren't covered with soot, before touching the fireplace. Remove the plastic sheeting, covering the opening and carefully dispose of it. Put your gloves back on and, if accessible, use a wire brush to loosen and remove soot and creosote, which have built up behind the damper on the smoke shelf. This material needs to be removed along with the debris on the inner hearth (fireplace floor). Use a scoop and put debris into a metal container (ash bucket).
Finish up, by using a shop vacuum. Be certain, that you clean shop vacuum tools and hoses, before allowing the vacuum or tools to come into contact with another surface. Be careful, when removing tarps, that you don't spill any dust and debris, that may have collected on them.
There are other methods for cleaning a chimney. For example, if the chimney has a chimney cap, that can't be removed, you may need to clean from the fireplace opening up, rather than from the chimney cap down, using a weighted brush. Instructions for this method are found on chimney brush packaging.
If you are the least hesitant about cleaning your own chimney, have the chimney cleaned by a reputable, experienced, established chimney sweep, who has received certification in his or her profession. Look at it this way: The cost could be as little as one-tenth of your fire insurance deductible. Chimney sweeps are listed in the Yellow Pages under "Chimney & Fireplace Cleaning & Repairing." If you discover damage, have it evaluated by a chimney sweep or mason.
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PAINTING FIREPLACE BRICKS AND MORTAR. GOOD IDEA OR BAD?
If you're planning to paint masonry, such as bricks and mortar, that haven't been previously painted, you may want to plan now for the day, when you'd like to see the natural appearance of the brick and mortar again.
It became fashionable in the mid '60s, to paint the bricks and mortar surrounding a fireplace white or adobe color. From the late '70s to the turn of the century it became fashionable, to remove the paint and have natural-appearing bricks. Unfortunately, people learned that stripping all the paint from bricks and mortar was virtually impossible, because of the porosity of the material. Sand, bead, corn blasting , a messy and expensive solution, doesn't always produce the desired results.
The trend to paint masonry to match decor and color scheme is popular again. However, before you do, there are a few steps you can take that may make reversing the process in the future possibly easier and less expensive:
-- Before painting, scrub bricks and mortar using a high-quality pre-painting solution, such as Jasco TSP No-Rinse Substitute. First, soak bricks and mortar with clean water, until as much water as possible has absorbed into the materials. Then use a non-metallic stiff-bristle brush dipped in the cleaning solution, to repeatedly scrub in a circular motion an area about 12-inches by 12-inches. Repeat, if necessary.
Safety tip: Protect your eyes with safety goggles, wear a respirator, gloves, and since the cleaning solution could be irritating to skin, wear protective clothing. Protect surrounding areas from inevitable spattering.
-- Thoroughly rinse the bricks and mortar with clean water, allowing them plenty of time to dry.
-- To dry bricks and mortar, apply an acrylic masonry sealer. Seal the face of each brick and the mortar with one or two coats (some sealants are one-coat only) of the sealer, making certain you do not miss spots. Sealing is important in the event you want to attempt to remove paint in the future, as it minimizes paint colors from penetrating into bricks and mortar. Allow the sealant to thoroughly dry.
-- Check with a paint salesperson or the manufacturer to determine, if a primer is necessary. Some masonry sealers are compatible with quality latex paints, which means that you can use the same paint, that you use on walls or trim, rather than one specifically made for masonry.
A brush is used to prime and paint mortar. A sponge brush or roller works well, to apply primer and paint to the face of bricks, although some people prefer brushing. Be careful not to apply any coating too heavily.