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California Drought: Water Rationing? Brown Lawns?

By Bob Chapman

It's official. For the third year in a row California faces a drought. Officials are saying that this one is more severe. The rainfall in many areas is just about half of normal. What's more disturbing news is that the Sierra snowpack that provides a very large share of our water currently is only slightly above normal. Pumping at the Delta is going to be restricted in order to save a threatened species of fish. Already, some water districts are calling for 10-15% voluntary cutbacks in water usage. Most single-family homes use about 20% of the water coming through the water meter for household use. The remaining 80% is used on the lawns, trees, shrubbery borders, flower beds and vegetable gardens. It is said that about 50-75% of outdoor water usage is given to the lawn. 

Let's look at some suggestions for curtailing the use of water outdoors and in our lawns and the landscaping. Look to the landscaping in your yard for major cutbacks to keep water coming to the home.

OUTDOOR TIPS.
- Refrain from washing cars and letting the hose run while doing so.

- Refrain from hosing off driveways and walks.

- Use drip irrigation for shrubbery borders and trees, flower beds and vegetable gardens. You'll only water plants, not the surrounding soil.

- Water lawns every 3 days only when needed and only during the hours from midnight to 4 A.M. Consider lowering the minutes on your timer about 10% or more depending on the severity of the drought and how the lawn looks.

- Check your sprinkler system heads every month for possible stoppage and leaks from the valve.

- Use a thick layer (one to three inches) of mulch in shrubbery borders to prevent evaporation and wasting water. Use landscape fabric under the layer of mulch. The fabric allows water and fertilizers to go through and not light, thus inhibits weed growth

- Eliminate weeds. They are water thieves, taking water needed by shrubs and trees.

- Group shrubs and trees by watering "zones," then only give those "dry" zones water when needed. Some plants can survive a drought with little or no additional water. They need a lot less water than do our lawns.

- Remove the thatch buildup in your lawn. Thatch is dead plant matter that can inhibit water penetration to the grass roots.

- Helping stressed plants. The leaves will tell you that the plant is suffering from a lack of water. Small leaves that are dull or bluish in color are one indicator. Use an inexpensive (about $8) moisture meter, inserting the probe to its full length. It will tell you if water is needed.

- Make a list and locations of drought-resistant plants in your garden and landscape and then try to keep precious water away from them. Perhaps it is possible to shut off a sprinkler head or an entire line that is really not needed.

- Watering flowers shrubs and trees with a garden hose is the least efficient way to irrigate. If you water your lawn by hand or use a set sprinkler or a popular oscillating sprinkler, do so in the early evening hours. Set a water timer for the amount of time needed. Using a timer prevents many an "OOOPS, I forgot about the sprinkler."  We simply cannot afford to waste a single drop of water.

- Lawns consume about half to two thirds of the water used by most homes during the warmer months.  It can be costly. Water is a precious commodity and needs to be conserved and used wisely.  Many gardeners water their lawns too long and too often.  Most lawns need to be watered only once every three days to remain healthy and green. How much water does your lawn use?  To determine how long to water and how much water that you use with your sprinkler system, set three to five flat bottomed cans or coffee mugs in a line at various intervals on your lawn, from the sprinkler heads to the outer area or the distance the sprinkler head will throw water (that portion generally receives the least water).  Turn on your sprinkler system for 15 minutes.  Measure the depth of water in each can or mug.  Then determine the average water depth in the containers.  The University of California has found that lawns generally need about 1 inch of water per week.  If the containers average about 3/8 of an inch you need not change the length of time that your sprinklers operate. If the depth of the containers averages less or more than 3/8 of an inch, adjust the timing accordingly. You'll save water and money and your lawn will be healthy.

- Set your lawn mower higher than you normally would.  The long grass blades will shade the soil and help stop the loss of moisture.

- Use fertilizer sparingly on the lawn. Apply just enough to keep it green without lots of growth. The longer, rapidly growing blades of grass in heavily fertilized lawns will lose more moisture to the atmosphere.

- The use of gravel, small rocks or cobbles over landscape fabric is found on more and more landscapes.  The use of these materials precludes the necessity of watering.  The landscape fabric allows rainwater to penetrate easily.  It allows air to the roots of existing trees and shrubs and makes it impossible for weeds to grow.  When designed correctly, these covered areas can become a major focal point for your yard.

- Water your containers using drip irrigation. Fill the area from the soil to the rim with small bark chips or small colorful stones to lessen water loss and help prevent weeds from invading.            

Following the above suggestions should save water and still keep your lawn and other landscaping alive for the summer.


 

Bob Chapman is a well-known professional gardener and landscape contractor. Currently retired, Bob now spends his time contributing many free-lance garden articles and columns, and is a much sought after lecturer and horticultural consultant.

Since 1987, Bob has appeared as a regular columnist for the San Jose Mercury News. Besides the Mercury, his writings have appeared in the San Diego Tribune, Sacramento Bee, Fresno Bee and the Times Newspaper Group. He is the 1991 winner of the Quill and Trowel Award of the Garden Writers Association of America for the best newspaper gardening article in North America.

Bob majored in Ornamental Horticulture at Cal-Poly, San Luis Obispo. He also served as a member of the Professional Gardeners Association.